Much of the truly superior ancient cameo carving originated in Greece and Rome. To this day, Italy has remained the major source of cameo cutting. There are, of course, cameos from other countries, such as France, England, and the United States.

France was renowned as a cameo center during the Renaissance Period (14th through 16th centuries), and it held this dominance through the mid-1700's. When Napoleon appeared for his coronation with a cameo decorated crown, cameos were all the rage in France.

During the reign of Queen Victoria (1837-1901), jewelry design in England flourished, and cameos were an important aspect of this period of English jewelry manufacture. Cameos were popular during this period as pins and pendants, and were often worn on black velvet, or pastel satin ribbons.

With the rise of the Louis Comfort Tiffany's jewelry during the Art Nouveau period of the early 1900, The United States boasted a wide array of fine quality cameos.

And Germany became an important center for cameo production after the second World War, when some of Europe's finest glass cutters from Czechoslovakia migrated to Bavaria and other German states.

A cameo is a small scene of nature, or figure which has been carved in relief. The word cameo specifically describes a relief image which is raised higher than its background and which has been carved from only one material. Cameos can be made in any material, even latex or plastic, but the most popular ones are those made from stone, coral, shell, glass and fine metals. Sometimes cameos are carved from hardstone, but more often they are made from substitutes such as conch shells, and pieces of Wedgwood porcelain china.

About 1805, Italian carvers began using shell for their creations. By the time of the Victorian Era, shell had become a medium that was easily carved and quite inexpensive, so it was often used. Since it was less formal and gemstone jewelry, it was often worn during the day. Stone cameos came from agate, sardonyx, or onyx. These materials produced extraordinary specimens, since they had many colorful layers for carvers to utilize.

Designs included figures of gods and goddesses of mythology. Other subjects related to them were also popular, such as the Three Graces (the daughters of Zeus), Bacchante maidens, chariot riders, and other similar figures. Natural scenes included houses, trees and bridges, and most scenes of this type were related to gardens and gardening. This floral motif continues to be popular for modern cameos.

And jokingly, of course, what collection of cameos would be complete without the Lady with the Ponytail in her hair? Women pictured on cameos have included Romanesque ladies, with classical features such as long, straight noses and Roman dress, and more feminized images of women with upturned noses, jewelry and upswept hairstyles. Whatever the model, the woman depicted represented the idealized woman.

The word cameo comes from the modern Italian word, meaning "to engrave," which is thought to have its roots in the ancient Hebrew/Arabic word "kamea", which means "charm" or "amulet." Popular folklore tales often give cameos a mystic capacity to attract health and good fortune to the wearer.

In contrast to the raised cameos which are so popular with collectors, there are also intaglio (pronounced with a silent "g.") cameo designs. In this type of cameo, the artist carves down into the stone from behind which hollows out a recessed image. Originally intaglios had a practical as well as decorative purpose. When brushed with ink or wax, the intaglio can be used as a seal or identifying stamp to mark a letter or document.

Training the eye so that a cameo can be dated can take many hours or even years of research. Jeweler's tools are a must and a loupe is a necessity, since magnification is so important. It is essential to examine the carving thoroughly to determine the material from which is has been carved. Magnification also to determine whether a cameo has been machine made. Also, close inspection will determine whether the cameo has been carved in one piece or assembled from different materials and glued together for the final product.

The motifs used can sometimes help the examiner to determine the timeframe for the piece. Classical scenes might indicate the 18th or 19th century as a time frame. Victorian cameos might have anonymous women as the subjects. A long Roman nose might indicate a piece before 1850 and a short upturned one later than mid-nineteenth century. Pert noses were popular at the turn of the century. Upswept curls might indicate the Victorian era, and short curls the 20th century.

The material used in the carving is also important for dating a cameo. The Victorian Era saw an abundance of shell cameos. Jet cameos were very popular during the 19th century in England. Shell cameos were used during the Victorian Era, and later.

Dryness, aging and the elements can all discolor or crack a shell cameo. Cameo jewelry should be stored in a clean, dry place. This will prevent damage and corrosion to the frame. Even gold frames can become tarnished because of the oxidation of the alloys in the metal. Careful storage also helps to prevent the shells from becoming chipped.

Cleaning cameos is a relatively simple process. The most popular method is a gentle scrubbing with a soft bristle toothbrush in a mild soap and water solution. Immediate and thorough rinsing with warm water is recommended. Never soak a shell cameo for longer than a few seconds. Once the cleaning is done, use a fine oil, such as a mineral oil or baby oil applied sparingly with a Q tip. Let this solution sit on the cameo overnight and then wipe off any excess oil that remains. This process should be performed once or twice a year.

Cameos like to "breathe." They do not like heat. Try not to store them in plastic bags or closed containers. Just sitting in a jewelry box is the best place for them. Finally, be careful of dropping them, since they are delicate and might chip or break.

Most modern cameos are mass produced, although not all are. There are still artisans carving cameos today, particularly in Italy. However, most modern cameos are produced with the aid of an ultrasonic mill. This gives the appearance of a shell carved cameo. However, under close magnification a grainy, pitted texture is evident, much like fallen snow. Another tip off of modern, mass produced cameos is the uniformity of the design. The pony tail girl is a good example. These modern specimens lack the artistry and softness of design that is so present in hand carved cameos.

Cameos Are very desirable heirlooms. It matters not Whether the cameo is a pendant, ring, bracelet or brooch, cameos are genuine works of art and are often considered an investment that will be cherished for many generations to come.